Saturday, February 04, 2006

RETURN TO TOBACCOSTAN

The first time I went south was the summer of 1970 riding a bus with my grandmother. She packed a bunch of tuna fish sandwiches and some cookies and off we went. The bus dropped her off at my uncle's house in Virginia and i continued on to North Carolina. I spent the night in a flea bag hotel in Asheville, NC and the next day landed at Western Carolina U. The purpose of my summer visit was freshman orientation at my new school. First order of business was procure booze and cigarettes. Young readers will be interested to know that cigarettes were thought to be good for you in these days. And, being this was tobacco country they cost 25 cents per pack. That's right! Good for you AND cheap.
I was 17 but because I had a 21 year old friend's draft card who was busy in Vietnam, I was picked as the person to get supplies. It was a dry county so my new friends had to drive me 30 miles just to get beer. Cigarettes were no problem. There were machines on each floor of the dorm and ashtrays on every classroom desk. Back at the dorm we lit up and started orienting ourselves to college life. By midnight I'd thrown a glass out a closed window and mounted a chair in the commons, announcing that as a Yankee I was sorry about the Civil War outcome and would try my damndest to make amends. I remember the crowd cheering but I could be wrong about that.
Three days later the bus picked up my grandmother in Virginia and we returned above the Mason/Dixon line. When I went back in the Fall I noticed people were looking at me, then turning and giggling amongst themselve. Other's (who I did not recognise) would wave and greet me warmly. Southerners are very friendly. They are like Middle Easterners- it's part of the culture to invite you in, crack a cold one and wave the stars and bars. I can't wait to drop down below the M/D line again. Did I mention I think ya'll got a raw deal in that blue and grey thing? Now light me.

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